Trastevere, translated into “across the Tiber,” was created as the thirteenth rione of Rome. South from Vatican City and across the Tiber River from the majority of the city, Trastevere remains secluded from what is considered to be Rome's center. With roots dating before Christ's death, Trastevere is signified by a coat of arms of a golden lion's head, Trastevere began its roots
Inhabited in early 500BC by fishermen and immigrants, Trastevere was already spawning into a rione of diversity. With proximity to the Tiber River, fishermen along with Jewish and Syrian immigrants moved into the rione across the Tiber. As Rome developed, during the Imperial Age Julius Caesar and Clodia built villas in the area known today as Trastevere. Durng the Middle Ages, the area of Trastevere was developed into the area that it remains today. With Medieval houses being built throughout the windy streets of the rione, Trastevere obtained character that was unlike any other rione in Rome.
Today, Trastevere is inhabited by students from all over the world along with local Italians that have lived in the rione for generatons. With five international universities calling Trastevere their home (John Cabot University, American Academy in Rome, Thomas More College of Liberal Arts, University of Waterloo School of Architecture, Pratt Institute of Architecture), one cannot help but feel an energetic aura as they walk through the cramped streets of the rione.
Having called Trastevere home for the past month, I find something new as I walk around the rione everyday. With bustling nightlife, restaurants lining every street, and unique markets flowing out of the piazzas; I would say that Trastevere is one of the most diverse and beautiful riones I have visited in Rome. There is never a dull moment as I walk down the streets I have now walked hundreds of times. The charm and character of the ancient buildings all painted in shades of yellow, red, or blue built atop cobble-stone streets lend the rione a rustic feel.
Having the opportunity to interview both a resident and a non-resident, with my partner Luis, of Trastevere provided me with a unique view of the area. Entering the bar below my apartment (Bar de Malva), we interviewed one of the workers in the bar who was a non-resident of the Trastevere neighborhood, Sujoy. Sujoy shared with us that he was born in Rome, grew up in Connecticut, and moved back to Rome upon graduating college. He stated that the only time he is in the Trastevere neighborhood is for work. He further shared that he cannot afford to live in the area because the prices of apartments are high. From Sujoy, we also learned that the area of Trastevere did not become a popular spot until about ten years ago when many bars, restaurants, and pubs made their roots there. In the barista's opinion, the area of Trastevere is so popular because of its view of the river and the old, stereotypical Roman buildings that fill the streets. After interviewing Sujoy, we interviewed Pierre, a resident of Trastevere for generations.
Pierre provided much information about Trastevere that I would not have otherwise known. When asked “What makes Trastevere unique?” he answered “The quiet day and busy night time.” Pierre shared that Trastevere comes alive at night, when the piazzas fill with people indulged in revelry. My partner, Luis, asked him “Is Trastevere considered a diverse neighborhood?” Pierre responded that he considers Trastevere to be an extremely diverse neighborhood. He described diversity being the amount of old Romans that have been in the neighborhood and stayed for generations. He shared that the stores in Trastevere have been here “forever.” Confused by this description of diversity, Luis and I asked Pierre to clarify his definition of diversity. We asked him if he meant that there are many immigrants that live in Trastevere. Seemingly shocked by this question, he responded that no, not many immigrants live in the neighborhood because it is extremely expensive and many of them cannot afford it. When asked Pierre to further clarify his terming of Trastevere as diverse, he stated that it is diverse in his eyes because it is different from any other neighborhood in Rome. He shared that many of the residents of Trastevere term themselves trasteveri, in order to separate themselves from the rest of Roman culture and many consider themselves to be living in their own city. Finally, we asked Pierre if he thinks that the students at the many universities throughout Trastevere add to the culture of the rione. He states that while they do add to the culture, it is fleeting because they are only living in Trastevere for a short while and never fully integrate into the culture of the rione.
Interviewing Sujoy and Pierre was a very enlightening experience. It was interesting to hear their perspectives of the rione. Perhaps what I found most interesting was the idea that people living in Trastevere identify themselves separately from the rest of the Roman society. Clearly, Trastevere is a very prideful neighborhood that has been maintained through generations of trasteveri. Considering Pierre's definition of diversity was also an interesting idea to contemplate. I often do not stop to consider the fact that different words mean different things to different people. Pierre proved to me that different areas can be considered diverse for a variety of reasons and not simply because of the people residing in them.
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