Trastevere: A City Within a City

Spending time in the rione “across the Tiber”, Trastevere, has allowed me to gain a lot of information about the neighborhood in which I reside during my time in Rome. Speaking with the residents in the neighborhood, observing daily life there, and reading the history of the area allotted me with much information on the rione.

Trastevere was created as the thirteenth rione of Rome. South from Vatican City and across the Tiber River from the majority of the city, Trastevere remains secluded from what is considered to be Rome's center. With roots dating before Christ's death, Trastevere is signified by a coat of arms of a golden lion's head with a red background. Inhabited in early 500BC by fishermen and immigrants, Trastevere was already spawning into a rione of diversity. With proximity to the Tiber River, fishermen along with Jewish and Syrian immigrants moved into the rione across the Tiber. As Rome developed, during the Imperial Age Julius Caesar and Clodia built villas in the area known today as Trastevere. Durng the Middle Ages, the area of Trastevere was developed into the area that it remains today. With Medieval houses being built throughout the windy streets of the rione, Trastevere obtained character that was unlike any other rione in Rome.

Today, Trastevere is inhabited by students from all over the world along with local Italians that have lived in the rione for generatons. With five international universities calling Trastevere their home (John Cabot University, American Academy in Rome, Thomas More College of Liberal Arts, University of Waterloo School of Architecture, Pratt Institute of Architecture), one cannot help but feel an energetic aura as they walk through the cramped streets of the rione.

The economy in Trastevere is largely based on tourism. With restaurants, small shops, bars, and gelaterias lining the streets, it is the perfect neighborhood for a tourist to walk through to get their fill of authentic Italian food, delicious cappuccinos, and irresistible world famous gelato. After talking to many of the workers in the shops throughout Trastevere, it is clear that the workers in the area simply come to work and then leave when their shift is over. Since the area is more expensive than many other riones, the majority of the workers do not reside within Trastevere.

For the rione project, my partner, Luis, and I decided on four main areas of the rione to take the class to: Basicilica di Santa Maria, Janiculum Hill, Piazza Santa Maria, and the open air market. All four of the attractions within Trastevere are unique to the rione and important to the history that is maintained within the neighborhood.

Basilica di Santa Maria is known as the first church in Rome where mass was openly celebrated. Dating back to 340AD, the basilica is beautifully decorated with ancient mosaics depicting the coronation of The Virgin Mary on the interior and on the exterior depicting images of the Madonna enthroned. Within the basilica, there are twenty-two Ionic and Corinthian granite columns original to the church.

Piazza di Santa Maria, located just outside of Basilica di Santa Maria, is often crowded during the evening and a gathering place for those engaging in nightlife in Trastevere. In the center of the piazza is a fountain that was constructed in 1692 and designed by Carol Fontana. This fountain is original to the piazza while originally constructed in travertine, has since been reconstructed with marble. The Piazza di Santa Maria serves as a great place to observe the natives of Trastevere.

The next point of interest in Trastevere, the Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo in Italian), is one of the few sites in Rome where one can see an expansive view of the ancient city. From the peek of this hill, one can count the seemingly endless domes marking churches within the city walls. The hill is the second tallest hill in Rome but was not one of the seven hills of Rome because it was outside the boundaries of the city that was Rome during antiquity. Originally the center of worship for the cult of Janis, the hill still remains a place of worship and is home to the Church of San Pietro Montorio. The Church of San Pietro Montorio is known as the church where Saint Peter is believed to have been crucified.

Finally, we decided that the last place that would be good to take the group to is the open air market located in a square just north of the Piazza di Santa Maria. This open air market is similar to the one that is located in Campo dei Fiori, but it is significantly cheaper. In this market, vendors display their fruits, vegetables, candies, cheeses, meats, pastas, and anything else that you could imagine. It is fun to look through this market and compare the vendors as well as the people shopping in the market as opposed to Campo dei Fiori.

After exploring the neighborhood and the monuments in Trastevere, the borders within the rione became clear. Interviewing the residents and workers in the shops made it clear that the insiders are the trasteveri, or the people that are native to Trastevere, and the outsiders are the workers in the shops and restaurants that line the narrow streets. I also think that it is clear that the students that reside in the neighborhood for a short period of time do not “belong” in the neighborhood. Since the students do not generally integrate with the natives of the community, it becomes clear that the students in the community do not quite fit in with the trasteveri. When observing the cafe below my apartment, it is clear that the students do not blend with the residents of the rione. The students sit at opposite tables from the residents and never communicate with one another unless the other finds they need to borrow a packet of zucchero from the others table.

Having called Trastevere home for the past month, I find something new as I walk around the rione everyday. With bustling nightlife, restaurants lining every street, and unique markets flowing out of the piazzas; I would say that Trastevere is one of the most diverse and beautiful riones I have visited in Rome. There is never a dull moment as I walk down the streets I have now walked hundreds of times. The charm and character of the ancient buildings all painted in shades of yellow, red, or blue built atop cobble-stone streets lend the rione a rustic feel.

Blog 7: What and who is Italian?

 Rome, Naples, Berlin, Paris: All very different cities with very different outlooks on immigration, youth, and education. While in Italy, there is a very clear definition of who is Italian and who is not, in other countries, such as Germany and France, there does not seem to be a definition of who is belongs in their country and who is an outsider. After visits to MACRO, a modern art museum in Rome, visiting Campo Nomadi in Naples, and studying the borders within the city of Rome; it is clear that Italy is backwards in regards to their acceptance of immigrants and the education of outsiders. In a global context, compared to other countries in the Western world, Italy's identity is shifting from that of a contemporary city to a city that is simply frozen in time.

Trash in Campo Nomadi- Naples, Italy

In class discussion and lectures, the question is consistently asked: Is Italy a contemporary city?After visiting Campo Nomadi in Naples, it became clear to me that Italy is far from a contemporary country. As we entered into the Roma camp, we walked on a trash covered ground. Once we entered into the actual camp, we were met by an abundance of children running around the camp on Friday afternoon at two o'clock. As I looked at my watch and thought about what I was doing at two o'clock on a Friday afternoon when I was a child, it occurred to me that there was something wrong with the fact that children were running around at that time in the afternoon instead of learning in a classroom at school. As I inquired as to why the children were at the camp without parental supervision instead of in a classroom, I received the answer that sixty percent of the population of Campo Nomadi is Roma children and the majority of them are without parents and cannot attend school on a regular basis because there is no regular transportation from the camp to the schools. For me, this answer signified that Italy is far from a contemporary country and without government intervention, funding, and protection laws for immigrants as well as Roma, the country will be unable to develop into a progressive country at the forefront of global issues. Furthermore, when immigrant and Roma children are able to attend school, they are unable to learn the Italian language. The short story “You Wicked Wooden Eyes, What Are You Looking At?” from Multicultural Literature in Contemporary Italy shares how Italian is taught to immigrants, “I began to worry right away, because I know it in my head and I understood immediately that he speaks it very badly. Who knows why they don't seat me next to an Italian so that I can learn from him,” (Orton 132). This story signifies that often immigrant children are not being placed in classrooms conducive to learning and being integrated into Italian society.

After visiting MACRO, Rome's Museum of Contemporary Art, my opinion that Rome is not a contemporary country strengthened. Its physical location coupled with an installation installed inside by Dan Perjovschi, an cartoonist from Romania, denoted to the fact that Rome's issues regarding immigrants and the Roma people have developed into a global issue. With drawings such as this one:

Dan Perjovschi Cartoon- MACRO Rome, Italy

it became clear that one of the objectives of the installation was to bring to the forefront the issues that many immigrants within Italy face. This particular cartoon, showing the invisible space that is filled by the Roma is a bold statement relating to the identity of Italy as a whole and confronts the question: What and who is Italian? With the Roma forced into encampments, paralleling the forcing of the Jews into Nazi concentration camps, it is clear that the Italians want to preserve their identity strictly as Italian and not allow the infiltration of other cultures and traditions into their society. Other cartoons in Perjovschi's installation depict pictures of stick figures chained to a table full of purses. This cartoon represents the immigrants role in Italian society strictly for the purpose of selling black market goods to tourists throughout the city. Since citizenship is nearly impossible for immigrants to obtain in Italy, it is hard for immigrants to obtain jobs outside of the black market. The Italian government makes it virtually impossible for one to “earn a living” (Orton 39) as demonstrated in the short story “Give Me Back My Coat” by Adrian N. Bravi. This short story illustrates the struggles of an immigrant and their struggle to earn a living and obtain a job in society.

Looking at Perjovschi's work coupled with my travels outside of Italy has allowed me to gain perspective on a country whose politics were previously unknown to me. As I traveled to cities such as Berlin and Paris, it was much more clear that immigrants were integrated into society and not pushed to the borders as an outsider forced to earn a living by entering the black market. In both Berlin and Paris, there were no street vendors attempting to sell goods to tourists. With a lack of the street vendors that are so prevalent throughout Rome, it was clear that immigrants must be much more integrated into society as accepted members of daily life in France and Germany.

The ideas of immigrants coming into society also brings up the issue of gentrification. There is no denying that gentrification is gradually changing the borders of Rome. A prime example of gentrification within Rome is the Jewish Ghetto. Formerly an area where the Jewish were confined behind the banks of the Tiber and forced to worship in secret, the neighborhood has developed into an area for the elite. After the Jewish were forced out of the Jewish Ghetto during World War II, the area gradually became gentrified and was no longer reserved for the Jewish minority. Today, many of the immigrants in Rome settle in neighborhoods close to Termini such as Piazza Vittorio and Esquilino. These neighborhoods are extremely close to the city center and in danger of being gentrified in the near future if opposition to immigrants continues in Rome. However, if Italians continue to have low birth rates and high rates of emigration, I would argue that traditionally Italian neighborhoods face the possibility of being gentrified by immigrants new to the city.

In regards to youth, Rome's youth culture and identity is diminishing as time progresses. With a birthrate that is the lowest in Europe, Italy is a dying population. Their low birthrate along with their extreme resistance to immigrant integration into society, has shifted the identity of Italy to that of an old country. The youth that do exist in Italy often emigrate to other countries within Europe because they are unable to find jobs within Italy that suit their educational experience. As youth flees Italy and the immigrant population increases, it makes for high tensions within the country. Since jobs within Italy limited, the elderly are retiring later, meaning that when youth graduate from college, there are no jobs for them to take over.  

From my perspective and experiences in Italy, I agree with Sharra Wasserman that Italy will develop into a contemporary country. With the Vatican looming over Rome and the ancient history laced throughout the entire country, I do not think that Italy will be able to break from its ancient shell without an extremely liberal Prime Minister. Currently having Silvio Berlusconi as the Prime Minster of Italy is only setting them further behind the rest of the contemporary Western world. 

Multicultural Literature in Contemporary Italy: Reflection 2

“Return” Fatima Ahmed

Fatima Ahmed shares a detailed experience with her readers about her return from Vietnam to Cambodia. When reading her short story, I was struck by her recollection of her memory. Memory, a common theme written about throughout many of the short stories compiled in Multicultural Literature in Contemporary Italy. The critical incident effecting Fatima occurred to me with this line, “Intoxicated by recollections deep in my memory, now resurfacing, I finally fell asleep and slid into the night,” (37). As Fatima's memory came back to her, she finally felt at peace with herself back in Cambodia.

This story parallels much of what was reflected in Clash of Civilizations over an Elevator in Piazza Vittorio. Both the book and this short story share a common theme of memory. While Fatima finds comfort in her memories, the characters in Clash of Civilizations often worked to suppress their memories that had frequently haunted them.

“Give Me Back My Coat” Adrian N. Bravi

In the short story “Give Me Back My Coat”, Adrian Bravi speaks of a character with an obsession with committing suicide. Throughout the story, the protagonist speaks of his goal of committing suicide in a completely peaceful and happy state. For this character, the critical incident was clear: when they he decided that he no long wanted to take his own life, “I felt like the loneliest person in the world, swollen everywhere, without a coat, or anything of value, I couldn't kill myself in that state,” (43).

This short story tied to the overall theme of our class, the idea of “otherness” that immigrants feel. Since he was unable to earn a living and gain a meaningful place in society. Demonstrating much of the alienation felt by many immigrants, this story demonstrates the struggles faced by immigrants on a daily basis.

“Light Beer and Peanuts” Viola Chandra

This short story, describing a half Indian half Italian woman, depicts a woman struggling to identify with her roots. Being taught her entire life to conform to society and reject the blood she had been given, she struggles to find her place in society, “But it is also true that thanks to his sense of humor, that country for many years has meant nothing more than an unreachable, unreal, and nonexistent place for me,” (46). Struggling to find her identity, she feels as if she is “buried alive” (46).

In this particular story, I think that the critical incident is when she finally is determined to become a part of the culture that her parents always made her afraid to confront, “Every time that I see an Indian or an African in Italy, I hope that he recognizes me; that he sees me as a member of his family, a daughter, since I am no longer the daughter of my own father,” (49). This quote represents the fact that she is beginning to embrace her otherness and reject the ideals of rejection that her parents placed in her head.

“The B-Line” Christiana de Caldas Brito

“The B-Line” continues the theme of memory in relation to words, “these words are all void of memories,” (54). This story illustrates how one does not necessarily have to communicate with the voice in order to make a language. Not being able to speak the native tongue of a foreign country means that many immigrants are forced to find other ways to communicate within society, “Fortunately a musician comes in. he speaks with his hands,” (55). I think that the musician boarding the metro represents the critical point in the story. Music represents a universal language that can be interpreted across borders by individuals of a multitude of cultures. This idea can be tied back to the day that we went on the graffiti walk. ON this walk, art was represented as a universal means of communication. The center where all of the graffiti was constructed represents a gathering place for people from all countries and walks of life where their words can be expressed through pictures.

“The Beggar” Christiana de Caldas Brito

Written by the same author as “The B-Line,” “The Beggar” once again has a strong focus on the meaning of words. In this short story, words are represented as a novelty and are something that the beggar strives to collect. Without these words given to him, the poet would remain in complete solitude and isolation from the world. I think that the critical incident in this story would be when the beggar receives the world foliage from someone on the street. When he received this word he exclaimed, “Do you know that FOLIAGE is much more beautiful than MOON or SPRING?” (60). This reaction represented how much words truly meant to him. They represent a gateway to communication and learning for the beggar.

“The Beggar” parallels the idea of the meaning of words and their importance to immigrants that we often take for granted. 

Artist Statement

Coming from the United States and viewing Italy from my American frame of reference has been an enlightening experience. I approached this grafitti project in a literal manner- depicting and spelling out the vast contrasts between American and Italian culture. While I feel that culture in America is constantly evolving and developing, the culture here in Italy is stagnant and disappearing. As symbolized by the blooming flowers contrasted against dying trees, Italy, in my opinion, is failing as a contemporary country in the western world. Without attaining a new, open mindset that is open to immigrants, Italy will not be able to regain their position in the world as an economic and social power.

Blog 6: Rione Interview Assignment

 Trastevere, translated into “across the Tiber,” was created as the thirteenth rione of Rome. South from Vatican City and across the Tiber River from the majority of the city, Trastevere remains secluded from what is considered to be Rome's center. With roots dating before Christ's death, Trastevere is signified by a coat of arms of a golden lion's head, Trastevere began its roots

Inhabited in early 500BC by fishermen and immigrants, Trastevere was already spawning into a rione of diversity. With proximity to the Tiber River, fishermen along with Jewish and Syrian immigrants moved into the rione across the Tiber. As Rome developed, during the Imperial Age Julius Caesar and Clodia built villas in the area known today as Trastevere. Durng the Middle Ages, the area of Trastevere was developed into the area that it remains today. With Medieval houses being built throughout the windy streets of the rione, Trastevere obtained character that was unlike any other rione in Rome.

Today, Trastevere is inhabited by students from all over the world along with local Italians that have lived in the rione for generatons. With five international universities calling Trastevere their home (John Cabot University, American Academy in Rome, Thomas More College of Liberal Arts, University of Waterloo School of Architecture, Pratt Institute of Architecture), one cannot help but feel an energetic aura as they walk through the cramped streets of the rione.

Having called Trastevere home for the past month, I find something new as I walk around the rione everyday. With bustling nightlife, restaurants lining every street, and unique markets flowing out of the piazzas; I would say that Trastevere is one of the most diverse and beautiful riones I have visited in Rome. There is never a dull moment as I walk down the streets I have now walked hundreds of times. The charm and character of the ancient buildings all painted in shades of yellow, red, or blue built atop cobble-stone streets lend the rione a rustic feel.

Having the opportunity to interview both a resident and a non-resident, with my partner Luis, of Trastevere provided me with a unique view of the area. Entering the bar below my apartment (Bar de Malva), we interviewed one of the workers in the bar who was a non-resident of the Trastevere neighborhood, Sujoy. Sujoy shared with us that he was born in Rome, grew up in Connecticut, and moved back to Rome upon graduating college. He stated that the only time he is in the Trastevere neighborhood is for work. He further shared that he cannot afford to live in the area because the prices of apartments are high. From Sujoy, we also learned that the area of Trastevere did not become a popular spot until about ten years ago when many bars, restaurants, and pubs made their roots there. In the barista's opinion, the area of Trastevere is so popular because of its view of the river and the old, stereotypical Roman buildings that fill the streets. After interviewing Sujoy, we interviewed Pierre, a resident of Trastevere for generations.

Pierre provided much information about Trastevere that I would not have otherwise known. When asked “What makes Trastevere unique?” he answered “The quiet day and busy night time.” Pierre shared that Trastevere comes alive at night, when the piazzas fill with people indulged in revelry. My partner, Luis, asked him “Is Trastevere considered a diverse neighborhood?” Pierre responded that he considers Trastevere to be an extremely diverse neighborhood. He described diversity being the amount of old Romans that have been in the neighborhood and stayed for generations. He shared that the stores in Trastevere have been here “forever.” Confused by this description of diversity, Luis and I asked Pierre to clarify his definition of diversity. We asked him if he meant that there are many immigrants that live in Trastevere. Seemingly shocked by this question, he responded that no, not many immigrants live in the neighborhood because it is extremely expensive and many of them cannot afford it. When asked Pierre to further clarify his terming of Trastevere as diverse, he stated that it is diverse in his eyes because it is different from any other neighborhood in Rome. He shared that many of the residents of Trastevere term themselves trasteveri, in order to separate themselves from the rest of Roman culture and many consider themselves to be living in their own city. Finally, we asked Pierre if he thinks that the students at the many universities throughout Trastevere add to the culture of the rione. He states that while they do add to the culture, it is fleeting because they are only living in Trastevere for a short while and never fully integrate into the culture of the rione.

Interviewing Sujoy and Pierre was a very enlightening experience. It was interesting to hear their perspectives of the rione. Perhaps what I found most interesting was the idea that people living in Trastevere identify themselves separately from the rest of the Roman society. Clearly, Trastevere is a very prideful neighborhood that has been maintained through generations of trasteveri. Considering Pierre's definition of diversity was also an interesting idea to contemplate. I often do not stop to consider the fact that different words mean different things to different people. Pierre proved to me that different areas can be considered diverse for a variety of reasons and not simply because of the people residing in them. 

Multicultural Literature Reflection and "Salvation"

 After reading the introduction and "Salvation" from Multicultural Literature, I was enlightened when the introduction mentioned, "migration is not the exclusive experience of a limited number of people," (Orton 11). Often, migration and immigration is discussed in the context of the individual but often is not discussed collectively. It is important to recognize that immigration does not only effect the individual but has the power to transform society. This effect can be seen by looking at the ever-changing demographics of schools within Italy; "in 2003-4 there were approximately 300,000 children of immigrants enrolled in the Italian school system, in 2018-9 that number will increase to approximately 700,000" (Orton 13). With this increase of immigrant students within schools, all Italian students will have the advantage of learning from the experiences of immigrants from all over the world. While, in Italy, immigrants are often seen as a burden, I think that Italians need to learn to embrace their presence and learn from their experiences. 

Reading "Salvation" by Amor Dekhis also presented some interesting ideas that I had never before reflected on. Something that I often do not consider when thinking about the experience of an immigrant is documentation. Amor speaks of her experience of obtaining documentation within Italy in the following manner, "at police headquarters I was treated as if I had just arrived yesterday every time I went to renew the white-and-blue document that allowed me to be left alone for a few more years," (Orton 68). When thinking of the experience of an immigrant, I often do not consider how difficult it is for an immigrant to obtain citizenship within their respective countries. 

Reading Multicultural Literature also made me question the mindset of the authorities when placing restrictions on the right of immigrants within Italy. I am interested to research a little more about the policies of various political parties within Italy and their views on immigrants. As I continue to read Multicultural Literature, I am excited to hear the experiences of migrants to Italy and their reflections on personal experiences.

Blog 5: Trip to Naples, Italy

Sculpture outside the subway in Naples

 Organized crime, trash-laiden streets, and pizza are just a few things that come to mind when the city of Naples is mentioned. We arrived in Naples hoping to dispel the images of crime organized by the Camorra and 'trashy' (literally) reputation that the city has, but, unfortunately, these stereotypes were only reinforced at a much greater level.

As we pulled into the train station in Napoli, I was struck by the skyline of the gateway to the South. With skyscrapers filling the landscape and mirroring modernity, I expected to be entering a progressive, economically stable city. However, as we exited the train station and made our walk to the Hostel of the Sun, these ideas quickly changed. While there were modern skyscrapers molding the landscape of Naples, our tour guide, Alex, was quick to inform me that these buildings remain virtually empty and simply serve as an image of opposition to progress.

Graffiti directed at the authorities in Naples 

Graffiti covering an ancient fountain in Naples

The skyscrapers are not the only modern image that stuck me as we toured the city of Naples. As we boarded the subway, I was immediately struck by the artwork that lined the immaculately clean subway walls. The subway in Naples was an artwork itself with its easy to navigate halls and sleek turnstiles. Naples' subway system juxtaposed against a blue sky and grit filled streets was an astonishing image. For me, this image once again symbolizes the resistance of the Napoleons to conform with modern day society coupled with the lack of government funding to help clean the trash off the streets. Looking at the subway systems in Naples also poses a question: How is the government able to provide enough money for elaborate artwork to be placed into the subway systems but they are not able to fund enough trash crews to clean the streets of Naples? While the subway system in Rome is not necessarily the cleanest or best designed, the streets of Rome are certainly not overflowing with trash.

Imagery is not the only thing that appealed to my sight during my visit to Naples, I was also struck by the elaborate graffiti lining the outside walls of virtually all of the buildings in the city center. While Rome has an extensive amount of graffiti covering many of its surfaces as well, the graffiti in Naples was must more extensive and detailed. For me, the detailed graffiti on the streets of Naples symbolizes the acceptance of the street art. Instead of mindless tagging, much of the graffiti on the buildings were detailed drawings that must have taken hours to create. The graffiti on the walls of Naples in many ways parallels this image, “This sorry-looking vespa leaning against the wall. It has not been abandoned. The neglect is a subtle form of camouflage,” (Severgnini 164). There is so much graffiti lining the walls of Naples, it becomes a unique sort of camouflage. As I wandered through Naples, the graffiti and trash almost seemed to disappear; simply becoming part of the landscape of the metropolis.

Traveling further South in Italy to Naples was an enlightening experience. The following passage discussing the similarities of personalities of all Italians: “The warmth, the vivaciousness, the importance they all put on human relationships, whether in business or day-to-day dealings, all these are common throughout the peninsula South of the Alps,” (Richards 107). While visiting Naples, I found that while some personality traits of Napoleons were shared with those of the Romans, there was an apparent dissonance between the North and the South. As we walked throughout Naples, it seemed that many of the Napoleons were much more aggressive than the Italians residing in Rome. This aggression was evidenced as motorcycles zoomed past pedestrians without slowing down or waiting for anyone to move out of their way. Resulting from this aggression, as I walked through Naples I continually felt a sense of fear looming as a I turned down each narrow street. Unfortunately, on our last day in Naples, a person in our group was robbed by a male Napolean driving aggressively on a motorcycle. Although we were in broad daylight and walking down a busting street, the mugging still occurred, reinforcing all of the negative thoughts we had previously heard about the South of Italy. Now, as I walk through Rome, I am constantly scared whenever a motorcycle drives by me on the street.

While I am aware that this robbery was an isolated incident that could have occurred in any city throughout the world, it shed a negative light on Napels in my mind. In my opinion, the city of Naples a lot of developing to do. The city has traces of progress laced throughout its streets, but it seems very backwards in the way the city functions. Sadly, the stereotypes surrounding Naples are continually being reinforced. In order for good information to be spread throughout the world about Naples as a city, the power needs to be taken from the Camorra and given to the people of the city.